Saturday, 5 January 2013

How to Paint a Fire Warrior

Hello Folks,

This tutorial was posted last year on the tab section, but I am trying to tidy up my top bar so I have to post it again so that I can link it. So far this has been viewed quite a lot, whether that means a lot of people have been using it, I dont know. However this is much simpler than the GW one, since this is 5 easy to follow steps rather than the 135 steps listed in GW tutorials. Here it is:

Step 1- Clean up the figures after cutting them off the sprue and gluing the with polystrene cement. Once dry, prime them with a black undercoat.


Step two - Apply the base colours for the armour, gun and the fabric and the back bit of the helmet.
The armour and end bit of the gun was painted with the new Games Workshop Skrag Brown, the fabric and helmet area was painted with Rhinox Hide. (Sorry about the blurred picture).


Step 3- Apply the first layer of the armour and gun with Tau Light Ochre from the new paint range. Re-apply for a second layer, then cover over any areas on the brown that have taken some accidental paint on them with Rhinox Hide. You can also paint in the black on the gun if any paint is on it that shouldn't be. You can use Chaos Black for that.

First Layer.

Second Layer.
 
Brown and Black painted in.
Step 4 - Now that the armour is done we can draw in the grooves on the gun and the armour. I used Rhinox Hide. I also start highlight everything, Armour/Gun - Bronzed Flesh, Fabric - Rhinox Hide mixed in with a light flesh colour, Black was highlighted with Foundry Charcoal Black C or Codex Grey.



Step 5 - The final stage is to lighten the armour and gun further by mixing a light flesh with Tau Light Ochre. The grenades were done the same as the black of the gun and the inside of the grenade was done with mordian blue base and highlighted with Tomb Blue B or Ice Blue. The white signatures were applied randomly. Squad markers were painted on with Tomb Blue B or Ice Blue. Gems were also done, Black - Red Gore - Blend Blood Red - Blend small highlight of Macharius Solar Orange - White added in the opposite corner. And gold to the ball bearings in the gun.


Symbols and Further Highlighting.



Gems.



Grenades.
Also have a quick look around the model to make sure you have coloured all surfaces and not painted inbto any grooves. Paint the rim of the base Rhinox hide so that when you are finished the whole squad you can base them. Hope this helps. Please comment below, any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks.

Friday, 4 January 2013

Step by Step guide - Painting Kroot

Hello Folks,

This tutorial was posted sometime last year. I am only re-posting it because of it's popularity and also because I am trying to give the blog a face lift so that the top tool bar doesn't become too clogged up and I can have a page with links to the tutorials. Without further or do here it is.

Step 1- Is the easiest step to do, start by cleaning up the models and gluing them etc (take note that you should use polystrene cement glue NOT super glue as it becomes weak and brittle after a few weeks). Then prime them with a white undercoat. Like so:



Step 2 - Apply the base layer of the skin as it has the largest surface area. I did this using Foundry 25B Bright Green. Or any mid tone bright green or any mid tone if you are doing a different colour scheme. You can block in the paint, but at this point I am not really caring too much if I paint over other parts of the models. It should look like this:



Step 3 - After waiting for the base layer of green to dry I apply a dark green wash. The wash should have the same consistency as an almost Full Fat Milk but not as watery as semi-skimmed milk. :) This should be darker at the hands, feet, torso and armpits. The wash should also dull down the green but leave some natural highlights which will save a lot of time for the later stages. So here is how they should look just now. (I should say that for these stages I use a No.4 brush):



Then before I start with anything else I add a black lining at his shoulder (any black will do) to show the difference between arm and fabric, like so(I don't need to do it anywhere else as the dark green was should take care of that) :


Step 4 - I then start to apply the base colours for the leather strap, bandages and straps around the gun. I used the Foundry Drab 12A, that is a light tan brown (I now switch to a 3 brush or anything equivalent to a citadel standard or base coat brush, it just depends on how confident you are).

And now some close ups of this stage, so you can see what your model should look like now, but remember we are still in the starting stages of the figure so don't get down if it doesn't look the part yet :)



Step 5 - Now we can start adding highlights and begin to work on the gun as well. For the highlights we go back to our green mid tone and pick out the areas you want lighter for further highlighting on the skin. Then for the fabric you can mix the base colour with a colour similar to or exactly like Raw linen 30C, this should be a 60:40 mix (Drab:Linen) OR if you feel really confident you can apply the Raw linen to the Drab whilst it is still wet but it will still give you the same effect :). For the gun I give the metal areas a black wash with the same consistency as semi-skimmed milk. And this is how it should look so far:




Step 6 - Now we start adding the lighter highlights to the skin, for this I used Foundry Bright Green 25C but you can use any light green that goes well with your mid tone. Also I drybrush the metal on the guns. For this I just used old style GW Boltgun Metal but you can use any metallic silver paint. I also paint all of the under belly. I apply a base of Drab 12C ( or any light tan) and apply the main colour of the skin of the belly, I used the Raw Linen 30C. So use the same colour as the one you used to mix with the Drab for the leather. Also for the gun hilt apply two layers of the scorched brown or any other dark red brown. Also paint the small stitches that hold the leather together scorched brown. This is the longest stage in the process but it is the one where you can do the most in. So here are the pics:




Step 7 - This is the stage where you can paint ALL of his spikes and claws black. You can also use any extra black that you have on your brush to wash over the gun to make the raised areas stand out. The bandages are now finished off with a drybrush of Raw Linen 30A or any other light tan. The small bits of string on his arms should be done in the same way. Here's how he should look:




Final Step - This is where all the little bits of detail are done, for example the silver triangles on the end of the string, sometimes there are gold bangles but the most fun of all is the hair. The hair can be done with a colour of your choice and make sure you use white for the dots. Have a look at the picture below so you know how to apply the paint. Also do the same for his body spike BUT not the toe nails or fingernails as he looks stupid with his nails painted.


And once you have painted enough of these guys, why not base them with grass to make them a part of the battlefield. To give you an idea of timing, it took me about 3-4 hours to paint them, that is also counting the time it took to take the pictures, so here is a group shot of them all done. Hope this was helpful :). Thanks for reading and please leave feedback in the comments. All feedback is appreciated. :D

Thursday, 3 January 2013

A Before and After...

Hello Folks,

I painted this miniatures sometime in Autumn of 2012. It is a Goblin Warboss that you could only get through the White Dwarf subscription many moons ago. I first painted this miniatures when I was 10, that was when I first picked up a brush, but then I stopped soon after that as I was young and had better things to do! I then thought I should try and re-paint it to give it the nice lick of paint it most deservely needs. I still think there are many aspects of this figure that could be done better, however I most certainly think it would make a ncie addition my Orcs and Gobbos army. They will soon make their appearance on the blog when I start to archive my figures so I have a record of all my lovely plastic and metal figures. The picture quality isn't that great on these photos, however you can still make out all of the fine details.

First: The Before...


As you can see there isn't much in the way of highlighting and shadowing.


This figure for me was very plain to look at, I now knew a lot more about colours on a figure how 2 should contrast and 1 should tie them up. For example, if you have a red and blue, try and have a purple somewhere to tie them in. It is a very good system if you are struggling with your colour schemes for bloodbowl teams or armies.



And now the Afters...


With this figure I tried NMM again on the sword and chain mail.  However I couldn't try NMM- Gold because my palette is very limited and I didn't have the colours to attempt this with. At some point once I have perfected the NMM style I will put up a series of Tutorials for all the avid painters wishing to progress their technique, like me.




The before and after posts will become more frequent in 2015 and beyond, once I finish my exams and I have time to paint up my own Tau army. The test figure can be seen here, Test Colour Miniature. Let me know what you think of the re-vamp. Would you have done anything differently, or have you attempted something like this on one of your own minis? Say so in the comments below. Bye for now
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